Salad in Winter

This Monday, as normal, I had rehearsal for a play that I'm performing and afterwards, a few of us fancied some dinner. It was a freezing cold and rainy night and we ended up very nearby to our rehearsal venue in Hakuba, a snazzy looking Japanese restaurant on Great Russell Street, just off Tottenham Court Road.

Hakuba feels like it should be in an upmarket dining complex or on an upper floor of a skyscraper hotel - tall wine glasses on every table, immaculate staff, an inviting bar area and a dimly-lit interior with sleek, dark wooden partitions.

The menu, however, is less impressive. A fairly standard line up of sushi, some bento-box type bog standards (the inevitable teriyakis...) and predictable side dishes. Even the "Hakuba signature dishes" involving fried calamari, scallops and marinated sashimi didn't look especially exciting. And, as well as their predictability, the prices put me off trying any of the standard stuff, £14.90 for salmon teriyaki - yikes! Nothing wrong with standard fare but a restaurant that so obvsiouly tries to be something a little special might do well to put as much effort into its choice of menu as it does into its light fittings.

Having flicked through the menu a few times, three of us went for salads while LS opted for a light snack of the gyoza - which actually looked quite good and homemade.


I ordered the sashimi salad and I was pleasantly surprised when it arrived. It was very nicely presented and not quite as small as I had expected (although it did cost £8.90). JA's light fried soft shell crab salad and AM's avocado and tofu version looked equally pretty. On closer inspection, the sashimi was cut incredibly thin and was somewhat dull in colour. It tasted fine but nothing out the ordinary at all. The others gave similar feedback and I suspect that much of our satisfaction came down to our intelligent menu choices rather than any magic in the kitchen. In fact, I could see just from the texture of AM's tofu that it was of the long-life variety.

We all decided that Hakuba would definitely be worth a return visit to properly explore the full range of dishes, drink at the bar, sample the sake and entertain guests. On the condition that it went it on expenses. If it's your money, spend it elsewhere.

Ten Ten Tei

I hate November. The weather is grim, the days are short, and let's face it, everything natural dies. I used to wallow in the misery of dark November days, wear black, listen Morrissey and read Thomas Hardy. Nowadays, I am less of a masochist. In fact, I try and do things, such as drinking and eating, that simply take my mind off the fact that it is the month of gloom.

It was partly with this in mind then that I cycled down to Ten Ten Tei, 56 Brewer Street, last night. In this simple Japanese diner I sought diversion from my moody Novembery contemplations.

Aided by the companionship of JA and RK we surveyed the vast menu that greeted us. Ten Ten Tei seemingly have everything: ramen, udon, soba, sushi, sashimi, donburi, fish, meat and veg dishes. That said, I was mildly disappointed by the lack of cha-han, something I am increasingly craving for (anyone know a place?).

Anyway, we gave our choices to the friendly but firm waitress and were soon rewarded with some exciting dishes. Most comment worthy were perhaps the cricket ball size, very tasty minced pork/potato croquettes. The quality of the fish was excellent too with the standard tuna sushi turning out to be made using a high quality buttery cut of flesh.




The 'tofu steak' was a generous and tasty alternative to the usual deep fried variety while the buta shoga (pork in ginger) and tempura were average but welcome. The niku jaga was fairly uninspiring although JA was pleased with the stock and wild for the gyoza.

My two friends also took a shine to the bottle of Bulldog tonkatsu sauce on the table. I tried to explain the manufacturer's rise to fame as a result of the attempted Steel Partners takeover bid, but probably failed to flesh it out properly - for those who are interested in the juicy details, click here. Perhaps more of a conversational highlight was RK talking about boisterous Ozzies when it later emerged that the two, very quiet, men on the adjacent table were indeed Antipodeans. Woops.

All in all Ten Ten Tei is good for a reasonably priced (about £15 ahead including a drink), authentic Japanese restaurant. It's been open about 20 years and there is a reasssuring presence of afterwork parties of Japanese salarymen.

The mystery of why Brewer Street is a little Japan Town continues....

Japanese Canteen

Tottenham Court Road (TCR) is generally known as the place for electronic goods but in recent years there has also been a concentration of home/furniture stores. And more recently still, it appears to be home to an increasing concentration of Japanese eateries. From the Centre Point Food Store, right up to Warren Street I counted at least 12 outlets - not to mention the Futon Company shop as well.

However, the old maxim about quantity not equating to quality is a sad truism in the Japanese food regard... As well as a few gems, there is also a Wasabi (see below) and some other pretty shoddy restaurants. I aim to visit them all so watch out for the definititive TCR J-Food Guide.

The other day I popped in for lunch at the Japanese Canteen.



This no frills diner offers an uninspiring menu of dishes - bento boxes, noodles, gyoza and "chilli fired rice" all with the same variants of topping. These are predictably, chicken and salmon teriyaki, pork and chicken katsu, chicken curry and so on... staples made either spicier or blander in accordance with some imagined idea of the "British taste", presumably based on Anglo-Chinese cuisine.

Attempting to judge the place on its own terms I went for the salmon teriyaki bento box. It was a reasonable size, served within about 2 seconds and tasted, well, pretty average. For £4.95 I guess the pricing is fair(although it's £2.45 for a few edamame!) but I found the bare interior, lack of smiles and unimaginative cuisine rather depressing overall. Go, if you have to but I reckon you'd be better off with a cornish pasty.



Looking forward to getting round to the good places!

Hare & Tortoise

The Hare & Tortoise in Bloomsbury is one of four outlets in this unusual and modern Asian chain. While Japan purists may be appalled by its blending of different Asian cuisines, Japanese format prevails and the deviations from tradition, such as spicy maguro maki sushi, are very welcome to the more open minded.

An evening with three old friends was the perfect occasion to sample a good cross section of the menu, which is vast in terms of its range, offering all sorts of sushi, sashimi, tempura, ramen and rice dishes. JA went for the classic miso ramen, except at the Hare & Tortoise it is made with a twist - generous dollops of garlic and chilli oil make it all the more flavourful and the perfect antidote to glum autumn weather. Meanwhile, LS (who has recently acquired an astonishing taste for fried food) went for the duck and bok-choi on rice. "But that's more Chinese than Japanese" I hear you say. Perhaps, but the presentation is don-buri style on Japanese rice and the meat is done in a similar way to tonkatsu making it a rare but happy combination of Sino-Japanese cooperation .




AM also went for Japanese style ramen while I opted for the special "laksa" ramen - a rich, very tasty, very spicy, coconutty Malaysian broth that plays host to pork, chicken, prawns and noodles. Sadly, it normally includes cucumber but I always have it without, cucumber being the one food I simply can't stomach. Cucumber in ramen - it's just wrong! The side order of prawn and chive gyoza was good too.



And on the liquid side, the drinks menu boasts a good range of Western beverages alongside umeshu (plum wine) and some good ginjo and kyotu-fu sake. Unfortunately our waitress brought us umeshu sodas for some reason... not sure why she did that but the service is pretty poor generally. The staff are mainly drawn from China and Southeast Asia and good command of English is clearly not given too much importance in the recruitment policy. I seem to remember some unordered dishes arriving on a previous visit too. But as AM pointed out, "it's cheap and the service is cheap and not very good but it doesn't really matter. It's good value and it's good." It is indeed - about 5 or 6 pounds for a superb main course that defeats most people with cheap and cheerful side orders for less.

The obvious comparison is with Wagamama's but the Hare & Tortoise is more unusual and intimate, and the food is more authentic, and better - even the crockery is nicer. And why the pub-type name for an Asian/Japanese diner? I haven't the foggiest but nousagi to kame would just be a failure.

Happy Fat Man

M and I went to Taro this evening. Taro is a Japanese diner on Soho's Brewer Street, next to the Glasshouse Stores pub. The Glasshouse has always intrigued me because of the large Japanese crowd that it invariably draws - apparently from a nearby language institute.

M refers to Taro as "the happy fat man", because of the round face logo. Having met the owner, the inspiration for the design is obvious:



The menu is classic - lots of ramen, udon, don-buri, sushi and high qulaity izakaya staples such as gyoza and agedofu. The decor is bright, modern and slick and the service of a very good standard; I ordered "Tonkatsu Curry Udon" but was initially presented with Tonkatsu Miso Udon - on mentioning the error there was no hesitancy in correcting the order and I was promptly presented with a large portion of the right dish, which was delicious. M opted for the "Chicken Teri Don" which was also excellent and of a size fit for greedy people, like M and me. Alive with a buzzing atmosphere, a couple of Carlsbergs (Asahi available but why waste the extra 30p?) and a half bottle of Ozeki cold sake, we were as happy as Larry (ラリー？）, on a very good day.


All in all our totally satisfactory feast set us back under £20 each, and then it was back to the Glasshouse to finish off the evening, two very happy fat men. Luckily we were both cycling home...

And by the way, if anyone knows the mystery of why this particular section of Brewer Street is so Japanese dominated, please do let me know!

Asakusa: Mornington Crescent

I love this place, Asakusa in Mornigton Crescent, just by the station. It looks and feels like you've stepped into an izakaya in Japan. The staff are all Japanese, have competent but strictly textbook English, the walls are covered with handwritten menus and Asahi beer posters, and the food is excellent.

I popped in with a couple of friends the other night and we romped through some a banquet of ika shougayaki, agedashi tofu, prawn tempura, succulent nigiri sushi, yakitori and gyoza. There is also a good selection of sake, shochu, umeshu and beer which I feel we didn't quite explore enough but there is always next time.



This place has been open for about 15 years and actually, if you look carefully behind the wall decoration it seems as though it might have once been a pub. Other memorable occasions there include the time when one of the older sushi chefs proudly proclaimed "I been Engrand 17 years but no English" and another when having asked for takowasa (raw octopus marinated in wasabi), we were presented with the off-menu special of "toriwasa" - the same dish made with raw chicken. It was so good that even some of my more squeamish friends wanted to order more.

Of course the price is not massively cheap, £30 for a good feed and a couple of drinks but the portions are fair and bowls of rice are only a quid. Also, I would love to see some other standard izakaya offerings on the menu, a yakisoba or chahan would go down well. And finally, it's a small point but, the toilet - they have gone local on this one. It is basically a standard pub toilet, a bit old, not particularly clean. If I was in charge, I would buy and install Toto's latest super loo with washlet and seat warmer immediately! What's the point of not learning English but compromising your lavatorial standards eh?

Wasabi Sushi & Bento

I came back from Brighton today and had to change trains at Victoria - I decided to check out the Wasabi Sushi & Bento place at the station. To be honest I've seen this place on a number of occasions and given it a wide berth, it just looks a bit nasty. The sushi is on shelves wastefully wrapped in individual portions while wasabi, soy and ginger is available in tiny sachets for 5p a pop. Today I decided to give it a go.

I opted for a couple of salmon nigiri ("2 sushis for £1" as the billboard announces) and some avocado hosomaki. It was predictably disappointing. Despite the name of the place, wasabi is not used in the construction of the sushi, the fish was small and unimpressive (although it was fresh) and the avocado too young and hard. I was pleased not to have bought more and to have avoided the specially for the UK varities such as red pepper rolled sushi. And, as well the excess packaging of each portion, to add insult to injury, they also give away disposable chopsticks with every purchase too.


At the counter, as well as offering wasabi peas, there are a few hot dishes available such as the very greasy looking chicken yakisoba, a Chinese looking tofu or chicken "jahang" and a couple of other shiny MSG concoctions.


It has been hard to find out much about this chain except that it is Japanese-owned and the website claims to have some sort of health mission pronouncing that sushi should be fresh and affordable. Hear hear. Apparently it is doing quite well too having 11 branches listed on the website, and having opened only in 2002. Reportedly, its Oxford street branch attracts almost 7,500 people per week visit with an average spend of £8.00. It is also pioneering contactless paying technology. At least it stands a chance of giving people like Pret a run for its money. Shame about the food.